Pattern for boot or shoe uppers



( o Model.)

0. J. WALP & A. R. LEAVITT.

PATTERN FOR BOOT 0R SHOE UPPBRS. No. 313,635. Patented Mar. 10,1885.

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OLIVER J. VVALP AND ALONZO R. LEAVITT, OF READING, PENNSYLVANIA.

OR ESE-5G5. UPPEFES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 313,635, dated March 10, 1885..

Application filed December 9, 1884. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that we, OLIVER J. W'ALP and ALoNZo R. LEAVITT, citizens of the United States, residing at the city of Reading, county of Berks, State of Pennsylvania, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Cutting Shoe-Uppers, &c., of which the following is a specification.

This improvement is more particularly related to laced or button shoes.

The object of the improvement is to secure greater strength in certain parts of the shoe, to reduce the number of seams and decrease the labor upon the shoe, and to save stock in getting out the uppers of shoes. This we attain in the use of the form or pattern shown in the accompanying drawings, in which similar letters designate similar parts.

Figure 1 represents a pattern for a No. 3 shoe. Fig. 2 is the usual lacing or button piece. Fig. 3 represents a complete shoe made from our form or pattern, showing the inside face of the right foot with the seam at the counter.

A represents the front or toe of the shoe; B, the front stay in a button-shoe, or, if sep arated on the dotted line B, it will represent lacing-stays for alaced shoe. Care the quarters; D, the seam and lap for the same, closing at the side on the counter; E, the back stay; E, the counter, and F the usual lacing or button piece.

In cutting out shoe-uppers as usually performed a multiplicity of patterns are requisite, each number of shoe having fromthree to five separate forms for the same. This requires great care on the part of the cutter to keep the parts in their proper relation to each other. This mode of cutting also requires the shifting and extra handling of the patterns over the face of the stock to adapt the various forms to be cut to an advantage. lVith our improvement this work is performed more rapidly, more accurately, and with less waste of stock. One pattern only needs to be handled for theuppers, and, when marked'and cut from the stock, the parts requisite toform the up pers are all adherent, forming an integral portion of the stock from which it was out.

Ashoe made from stock out by our improved form or pattern makes up better than a shoe whose separate parts are cut from separate patterns, as the stock in the latter case may vary for each piececomposing the shoe, whereas in the former case the stock in the toe, quarters, and counter will be alike.

Shoes as usually constructed have a seam upon each quarter, and upon the back of the counter, making three seams. These are independent of the lacing-pieces, which also have i'acingstrips upon their lacing or button faces, with a back stay at the rear of the counter carried up from the inner sole to the top of the lacing-piece.

In our improvement we provide the back stay and front-seam stay intact with the upper, and have but one seam to make. \Ve make our closure upon the side of the counter on the inside face of the shoe. There is there fore no seam in the upper visible in walking, and the shoe presents a neater appearance to the eye.

In our shoe, the back stay being integral with the counter-piece, there is not the same tendency to break or tear at the connection between the counter and lacing pieces, the shoe presenting a fair unbroken outline upon the back stay until it is worn out, all side seams, except the closure at the counter, being re moved. There is no pressure and pain therefrom, and the seam at the counter being guarded thereby, there is also freedom from seam-pressure at that point. The front stay adds very materially to the strength of the shoe, either in its use as a stay per se in a button-shoe, or as a facing, when divided, to the edges of the lacing-pieces.

The construction of our form or pattern is so clearly shown in the drawings that an expert would scarcely require an explanation of the same. We prefer to make the pattern of sheet--zinc, as it is easily worked to shape and will sustain a long-continued use. Any fieXible material having sufficient hardness to withstand the action of the scribing-tool will answer in lieu of the zinc.

The figures and lines given upon the drawings, Fig. 1, represent what we find to be right for the cutting of the uppers for a No. 3 shoe, and will indicate to the expert the variations to be made in laying off a pattern for a larger or smaller number of shoe, one pattern being required for each number of shoe it is desired to manufacture.

We are aware that we are not the first to construct a pattern for cutting a shoe-upper which in a single piece covers the entire surface of the leather portion of the same, (see Patents No. 182,554, September 26, 1876, Brossel; No. 179,779, July 11, 1876, Fischer, and N 0. 308,345, November 25, 1884:, Orowe;) but we believe our improvement to be an advance upon all prior patents for the above purpose, as requiring less stock and less crimping and treeing to adapt the leather to the last.

Having shown our improvement, described its construction, advantages, and use, we desire to secure by Letters Patent the following claim thereon:

As an improved manufacture, a shoepattern consisting of the Vamps and quarters, one

of the quarters longer than the 0ther, a front stay and back stay, all of a single piece, and adapted for an upper having a single seam upon the inside face of the boot or shoe near the heel, all substantially as shown, and for the purpose set forth.

OLIVER J. WALP. ALONZO R. LEAVITT. Witnesses:

H. O. GABLE, 'F. P11312013 HUMMEL. 

